While last December’s tsunami washed away tourism from her most popular beaches, there are still plenty of great reasons to visit Sri Lanka. Literally meaning “Lanka the Blessed,” this teardrop-shaped island nation off of the southern tip of India is blessed with an impressive pedigree of cultural relics situated inland, far from the devastated coasts.

The most extraordinary of these sites is Sigiriya, the ruins of a fifth-century AD fortress built by King Kasyapa, who murdered his father to steal the crown from his half-brother. To evade retaliation, Kasyapa built his palace atop a 200 m (656ft) high giant rock surrounded by a 70 hectare fortified town. According to legend, the legitimate heir prevailed, and in the end, Kasyapa committed suicide. The town later became a Buddhist monastery complex until it was abandoned in the 14th century.

Sigiriya still retains an air of paranoid extravagance. On the way up, you will see the 22 surviving frescos of the 500 that once adorned the rock walls. Experts disagree about whether the alluring women depicted on them are heavenly angels, or earthly court beauties. A little further on is the Mirror Wall, with a glistening surface that was achieved using an egg white and honey glaze. Graffiti covers the wall, some of it dating back to the 8th century.

SIGIRIYA, SRI LANKA: Sigiriya, the ruins of a 5th century AD fortress built by King Kasyapa, who built his palace atop a 200 m (656ft) high giant rock surrounded by a 70 hectare fortified town. (Jan Jekielek)

The highest citadel is reached via the Lion Staircase, after which Sigiriya, literally “lion rock,” is named. Only the paws remain of the giant feline whose jaws once framed the entrance to the palace complex. It’s a steep climb up, but the view is spectacular. Looking down, you can see the Water Gardens, an astonishing feat of engineering in their day. In the palace itself you’ll explore the remaining walls and foundations, and a large rock-carved pool. Among these ancient ruins you will find Kasyapa’s stone throne, from which he anxiously surveyed his kingdom until his karma caught up with him.

Sigiriya is 169 km (105 miles) northeast of Colombo, 2-3 hours away by rail or road. It’s best to go early in the morning, avoiding the midday heat; it takes at least 3 hours to see everything. The entrance fee is a steep US $20, but worth it to see what is rightfully considered the Eighth Wonder of the World.

After your morning at Sigiriya, take an extended lunch then head to the Golden Temple of Dambulla, just 19 km (11.9 miles) further down the road towards Kandy. This complex of five cave-temples was established in the 1st century B.C. and has been in continuous use ever since. The dim caves house 157 Buddha statues, as well as images of Hindu gods, all made out of granite, brick or wood. The ceilings and walls are covered with almost 2,000 m2 (21,000 ft2) of frescos, making it the largest area of such paintings in the world, and a World Heritage Site. One interesting highlight is the “Rock Water” Temple, where water drips constantly from a mysterious source. Monks conduct a private ceremony with this holy water, daily at 10:30 am.

It’s worth getting a guide to help you decipher these warrens of Buddhist relics. You can learn many things, such as how to distinguish reclining Buddha statues from those of Buddha after his death, and 2,100 year-old art from 20th century art. The entrance fee is modest; guides are available for a donation (a recommended US $2-$5).

From Dambulla it’s 73 km (45 miles) further to Kandy, home of the most important Buddhist pilgrimage site in Sri Lanka: Dalada Maligawa, the “Temple of the Tooth Relic,” which enshrines the left canine tooth of the founder of the Buddhist religion. The tooth was secretly smuggled to Sri Lanka from India in the 4th century A.D. after a miraculous escape from fanatical Brahmans who wanted to destroy it. It came to its present location at end of the 16th century.

	SIGIRYA, SRI LANKA: The carved-rock pool at the highest citadel in Kasyapa's Palace still holds ample amounts of water, surrounded by some of the remaining walls and foundations. (Jan Jekielek)

The tooth, encased in six coffers of decreasing size, is opened once every three or four years, attracting millions worshippers. A replica of the tooth, however, goes on parade several times per year, most notably during the Kandy Esala Perahera, occurring in July/August (August 10-20, in 2005). This dazzling pageant includes torch-bearers, whip-crackers, dancers, drummers, and culminates in the procession of the “tooth” on the back of an elaborately festooned elephant.

There are four shrine rooms featuring Buddha statues gifted from around the world (including one holograph), 960 year-old scriptures written on palm leaf, and the Holy Shrine of the tooth itself, easily identified by the long queue. Three times per day a booming drum ceremony signals the opening of the shrines for viewing (6-7 am, 10-11:30 am, 7-8 pm). Be sure to arrive at one of the early two times to avoid disappointment; opening hours are 6 am - 4 pm.

These three magnificent sites, together with the ruins of the lost capitals of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, form what’s come to be known as Sri Lanka’s “Cultural Triangle.” They are but a taste of the ancient pleasures awaiting you. So forget about your bikini, and slip into antiquity.