Dominica is probably the only Caribbean island Columbus might still recognize. From the air, this northern Windward Island is a mass of densely forested mountains scored by river valleys. At ground level ‘The Nature Island’ bursts with luxuriant vegetation--giant rainforests of trees and ferns, wild heliconias, ginger lilies, orchids, football-size grapefruits and thick bunches of bananas, the staple crop.
Although small at 29 miles long by 16 wide, its rugged topography makes it seem much bigger. To the Caribs who made it one of their last strongholds, it was Wai’tukubuli –Tall is her body – and, like the rainforest, the Caribs have also survived here. The stunning scenery of the Morne Trois Pitons National Park is matched underwater by the seascape of the Scotts Head, Soufriere Marine Reserve with its submerged crater, sheer coral reefs, lava pinnacles and the thermally heated bubbling water of the Champagne Reef.
Although already designated by Green Globe as the Caribbean’s Green destination, when the Morne Trois Pitons National Park was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites in December 1997, Dominica attained world eco-destination status. Covering nearly 17,000 acres, the park lies in the south of the island. Besides having some of the best examples of rainforest, elfin and montane forest and the highest mountains in the Lesser Antilles, it boasts the largest Boiling Lake in the western hemisphere.
The three most popular sites are The Emerald Pool, the Freshwater Reservoir and the Boiling Lake. Morne Micotrin, and the Freshwater and Boeri lakes are all relics of one of the largest volcanic explosions in the Caribbean.
The hike to the Boiling Lake (four miles as the crow flies, but realistically an eight-hour round trip) is a once in a lifetime experience. There are spectacular views en route; the surreal sulphur-spring moonscape of the Valley of Desolation with its steaming fumaroles, pools of boiling mud, mineral streams streaked black, blue, yellow and orange and finally the bubbling cauldron itself, wreathed in steam.
There are several other protected areas in Dominca. These include Morne Diablotin National Park, Indian River National Park and the Scotts Head, and Soufriere Marine Reserve. Of particular note are Cabrits National Park, site of the ruins of Georgian Fort Shirley, and the Syndicate Parrot Reserve, home to two endangered parrot species: the Sisserou, Dominica’s national bird, and the red-necked Jaco. The Parrot Reserve also hosts the 500-year-old Chatagnier Ti Feuille tree, ‘the grandfather of the forest,’ as well as giant gommiers and ferns, the likes of which dinosaurs once dined on.
The sea, both above and below, has its treasures. Sperm and humpback whales and dolphins are regularly sighted offshore and the reefs, which plunge dramatically to depths of 1,000 feet, will awe divers. Besides the diversity of coral, there are rare sea creatures: frogfish, batfish, electric rays, sea horses, snakes and urchins.
The Caribs, too, are a rarity; this is the only island where you’ll find them in large numbers living on their own land. The Kalinago, or Island Caribs, displaced peaceful Arawaks, controlling the Windward Islands from 1400-1700 and, due to the impenetrable mountain interior, were able to resist colonization longer than anywhere else in the Caribbean. Depleted by wars and disease, cut off from their hunting and fishing grounds, they withdrew to the inaccessible east coast.
Their descendants live an exhilarating ride away from Roseau, across the transinsular road, which snakes up into the mountains, uncoiling down to Castle Bruce and L’Escalier Tete Chien on the east coast. This rock staircase marks both the spot where the dog-headed serpent of Carib mythology emerged from the sea and the beginning of the Carib Territory. The 3,782-acre reservation, established by the British colonial administrator Hesketh Bell in 1903, is now home to some 4,000 Caribs. Although the only time you’re likely to see them dressed in traditional costume is when a cultural group performs, the ancient crafts of larouma reed basket weaving and building dugout canoes from the gommier tree are still practiced. There are booths throughout the Territory selling crafts and the model village at Crayfish River gives an insight into their former lifestyle. Despite intermarriage, there are still pure Caribs in the Territory, short of stature with the high cheekbones and long straight hair of their Mongolian ancestors. French Creole influence pervades the island so, while the official language may be English, everyone speaks ‘Kweyol’- the French Creole patois that evolved as a means of communication between French settlers and African slaves.
Dominican cuisine is a delectable expression of its Creole culture –a combination of French, West African and Carib cooking styles. Local delicacies include mountain chicken and crayfish along with river and sea fish, crabs, shellfish, octopus, wild game, and root tubers.
Kweyol language and culture have played an increasingly important role in defining island identity since its independence from Britain in 1978. Creole Day at the end of October is as important a cultural event as Carnival. Schoolchildren and adults dressed in Creole national costumes cluster in the narrow streets of Roseau.
On street corners and in restaurants, Jing Ping bands perform. Their infectious syncopated rhythms are led by a romping accordion, and accompanied by a shallow tanbou drum, the metal ‘gwaj’ or scraper, and the ‘boom boom’ base, a length of bamboo, which is blown into. Sometimes the shac shac (maracas), a violin, banjo or guitar may be added.
At the end of October, the annual World Creole Music festival showcases music from the French Creole speaking world -- konpa, zouk, zydeco and soukous. But most importantly it highlights Dominican music, from traditional forms like Bele, Jing Ping and Bouyon, to the latest fusion of traditional music with kadans, zouk and soca.
For three nights up to Independence Day on November 1st, Festival City on the edge of Roseau becomes the site of a marathon music party. Dominicans have stamina to match their mountains and the concerts that begin at 9p.m. are still raging long after dawn.
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