Victoire Louapre, media manager of Le Fooding, on restaurant trends in Paris:
On American Chefs
There are a significant number of American chefs in Paris, as well as French chefs who moved to the United States and came back. There are also chefs who have never set foot in the United States but want to cook North American food.
Jody Williams, Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian, Marc Grossman, Daniel Rose, and Gregory Marchand are standouts. Marchand is French, but worked in London and New York before opening his restaurant Frenchie. Despite the name, one can taste an incredibly Anglo-Saxon influence in his way of cooking and hosting.
People love these chefs because they manage to show an American (or Americanized) cuisine that is very far from what French people expect. None of them serve burgers and fries; instead, they’ve all adopted the generosity and multicultural values they saw in the United States and use these in their Parisian kitchens.
There is the very American no reservations trend. American service is also more casual, and that has caught on at a lot of restaurants. For example, at Septime, waiters crouch down to your level and make an effort to be super friendly.
And Finally, on Brooklyn
There is a strong influence of the “Brooklyn look” here in Parisian restaurants. The walls are “raw,” with old scratches of paint; there is very little lighting; there are big glass windows and tiles everywhere. Whereas the new food trends in Paris are influenced by Scandinavian food and/or South American food, the restaurants themselves have a certain “Brooklyn” touch.