MILAN— Milan designers were tapping their tribal spirit in womenswear collections for next fall and winter making their runway debuts. Marni, Dolce&Gabbana, Missoni and Ferragamo are among the design highlights Sunday, the fifth day of Milan Fashion Week.
The Nomad spirit has seized Marni.
Feathers festoon wool coats and skirt fronts, and some dresses have an exotic grass skirt effect.
The underlying architecture of the looks is pure Marni: ample cuts, ruffles, sloping sleeves, long hemlines and roomy trousers. And there are the classic Marini florals and patterns. In this collection for next fall and winter, the patterns are taken from German artist Mangus Plessen’s works, part of Marni’s ongoing collaboration with artists.
Designer Consuelo Castiglioni took the looks and layered one on top of each for a cocooning effect — a word bandied about Milan this season. In one look a vibrant blue fur is wrapped over a sweater and bustier with a peplum embellishment that gives way to the aforementioned grass skirt, prettied up with iridescent blue and maroon feathers. The models hair is matted, an almost seaweed effect speaks of wildness.
On the simpler side, Castiglioni also incorporates sporty looks from her men’s line, with athletic style pants or skirts with drawstrings at the hem, worn with zip jackets and matching sweatshirts. There were a series of easy to wear, neoprene outfits featuring oversized ruffles, and to which this statement from the designer’s notes certainly applies: “The body is barely touched.”