The Byzantine Monastery of the Virgin Mary Chosoviotissa on the island of Amorgos, the Cyclades, Greece. (Robert Hallett)

Amorgos lies at the eastern end of the Cyclades in Greece on an ancient trade route. Old names for the island are Yperia and Melania (also Agoudouras), which refers to the blackish, oak-like plant that covered the Aegialis valley and was used to tan leather. While there, I found that islanders hope to protect the environment and cultural heritage, yet still promote responsible tourism for those wanting to discover the historical character of the island.

Amorgos Enchants

Pristine homes and footpaths feature bright flowers and other local flora, despite the seeming desolation of the landscape. (Robert Hallett)

To me, Amorgos is people, paths, and plants; sun, sea, and stones—an undeveloped island suited for travelers rather than tourists. It is for people who want to take the time to discover an older, authentic way of life, to explore the construction styles and architecture of old stone houses, barns, churches (there are 365) and chapels (40).

It is a place in which to wander the well-marked footpaths in search of the many wild herbs and edible greens, pausing for refreshment at friendly local “tavernas,” appreciating the old stone buildings, narrow, decorated streets and perhaps selecting a few handicrafts.

Highlights include the unique Byzantine Monastery of Panaghia Hozoviotissa (the Virgin Mary Chosoviotissa) which was established in 1088 and its museum, which includes displays of religious manuscripts from the 11th and 12th centuries. Another unforgettable excursion was a visit to the ancient capital Hora (now Chora) with its winding footpath streets, archaeological museum, and interesting shops and tavernas.

The many miles of dry stone fences marking boundaries and creating terraces for farming are potentially UNESCO heritage features. Aegiali port with its three traditional villages—Langada, Tholaria, and Potamos nestled in the surrounding hills—and Ormos, the port, beach, and tourist area, are worth spending time discovering.

Medicinal Herbs and Magical Moments

Resting at a taverna in Ormos allows a peaceful and scenic view of the Aegean Sea. (Robert Hallett)

The profusion of wild Amorgian herbs with medicinal and aromatic properties has generated a traditional herbal therapy business in Langada. Vagelis Vassalos, the owner, was trained in pharmacy at the University College London and then studied Oriental medicine at the International College of Oriental Medicine, East Grinstead. His Natural Therapy Studio sells a variety of packaged herbs.

Treatments, including acupuncture, are available at the shop/clinic. The Taverna O Nikos, among others along the small winding streets, added to the atmosphere and helped us rest our legs.

We walked many of the footpaths and tried to identify some of the medicinal herbs along the paths. Oregano (fitilaki), sage (flaskomilo) and thyme grow wild and there are supposedly some 680 different species of herbs between Aegiali and Thoralia. There is one species whose small flowers can be used as lamp wicks floating in oil and papoulia, with yellow flowers that have honey inside, is used as a tranquilizer.

The young shoots of potika are eaten like asparagus and madragouros, with its large flat leaves and purple flowers, has a fruit used in traditional medicine. The island’s 25,000 wild goats seem to love the aspartas, with its yellow flowers and spikey leaves, and azoiras is said to help them yield good milk.

We explored the abandoned village of Stroubo, between Langada and Thoralia, and tried to imagine how hard life must have been long ago. While you are there, seek out architectural features such as a triangular apex over the front door (to bring luck), stone “hinges” for walls and fences, interesting chimney pots, and grain threshing circles paved with stone.

Donkeys are still an important means of transport on these twisting, sometimes difficult paths. Look closely at the details of island life and you might even find yourself wanting to stay awhile. “Walk it to feel it” and appreciate the human scale of the surroundings within an apparently bleak and unforgiving landscape.

Places to Be, Things to Do

Tavernas on Amorgos, like this one in Chora, offer friendly refreshment for the weary traveler. (Robert Hallett)

For sports lovers, there is scuba diving and rock climbing that can be arranged by Dimitrios Synodinos in Ormos. For serious walking tours, Anna Butcher (United Kingdom), will arrange for small groups.

In Aegiali, try the up-market beach hotel, Lakki Village, or the five-star Aegialis Hotel and Spa overlooking the port; or Mike (pronounced "me-kay") Hotel by the port. Off-season prices for singles are $44 and doubles, $53, rising to $52 and $65, respectively, in high season. The Camara Café in Potamos is new and has suitewww.sunvil.co.uk/sunvil/home/destinatis for about € 50, depending on the season.

Aegialis and the traditional villages all have simple accommodation, pensions and rooms to let as well as a few smaller hotels. In Chora, the Leonidas Taverna and Grill offers good food and the owner makes pasteli, the sesame seed/honey specialty served on a fresh, diamond-shaped lemon leaf. Theologitou Polytimi offers good rooms with views of the old windmills of Chora.

Tavernas usually have home-made rakomello, a beverage made of raki (a non-sweet, anise-flavored liquor) and honey and herb flavoring. A liter jug of ordinary wine costs $6.81–$8.17. A basic lunch features excellent bread, feta cheese, olives, pickled beets, often deep-fried small fish, and tzatziki, an appetizer made of yogurt, cucumber, garlic and olive oil. More elaborate meals include more seafood, like calamari and prawns, and other vegetables.

Robert Hallett, a Canadian retiree, worked for the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO), based in Vienna, for 24 years, as a wood industry specialist. Writing was a natural extension of his occupation. During his career, and also in private travel, he visited over 80 countries.

For more information:
Getting to Amorgos: www.visitbluestarferries.com/ENGLISH/defaultmain.htm    
Scuba diving in Ormos: www.amorgos-diving.com
Walking tours: www.sunvil.co.uk/sunvil/home/destinations/Greece/Walking_in_Greece.asp
Lakki Village: www.lakkivillage
Aegialis Hotel and Spa: www.amorgos.com
Theologitou Polytimi: www.myamorgos.com