I concocted this chowder to use the best that Maine has to offer: flavorful local heirloom tomatoes, sweet fresh corn, new potatoes, herbs and, of course, Maine lobsters.
It also calls for smoked bacon, and it’s worth the effort to find a New England smoke house if you can. We now use Fox Country Smoke House in Canterbury, N.H., which sells thickly sliced perfectly smoked bacon unlike anything available in supermarkets.
A stock made of the lobsters’ shells and of the corn cobs takes a little time but really highlights the ingredients.
As you may have noted, the flavor of chowder is enhanced by setting aside to “cure” for at least an hour. Even better taste results from refrigerating it overnight, so this is the perfect recipe for company.
If refrigerating, let it cool for an hour, then refrigerate uncovered until chilled, and then cover. Covering it slows cooling and may result in the center being warm, permitting bacterial growth.
Bring a large pot of salted water (2 tablespoons per quart) to a rapid boil.
Boil lobsters for 8 minutes after they return to the boil. Drain, cool, and remove lobster meat. Remove intestinal tract from the tail and the cartilage from claws; note the meat is not completely cooked. Cooking is finished when the meat is added to the chowder. Chop into 1– to 1 1/2-inch pieces and refrigerate. A stock made of the lobsters’ shells and of the corn cobs takes a little time but really highlights the ingredients.
In a heavy-bottom pot, heat oil over high heat. Chop shells roughly and place in pot, stirring until slightly browned and aromatic.
While shells are cooking, cut the kernels from the four ears of corn and set aside.
Add wine to shells and continue on high heat until wine is nearly evaporated.
Add corn cobs, 2 quarts water, the peppercorns, and bay leaves. Cook at a steady simmer until stock is reduced to half. Strain through a fine mesh strainer.
Wipe out pot, place over medium heat, and add bacon. Cook until bacon is brown and crisp. Drain off nearly all of the fat and add onions, cooking until soft but not brown.
Add stock, potatoes, and tomatoes, cooking at a simmer until potatoes are softened.
Add lobster, corn, chopped basil, butter, and cream and keep over heat for a couple minutes.
Taste, adding salt and pepper as needed.
Take off heat, let sit for one hour, then reheat. If not serving the same day, cool, refrigerate uncovered, then cover. This will keep for 2 days.
This recipe has several steps, none of which is difficult. If you make this, be prepared to be asked to do it again. It appeared at every Labor Day cookout while we were at Sebago and may have been the reason we were invited to the cookouts even after we had sold our cottage!
Charlie Burke is a freelance writer, organic farmer, and cook living in the New England area. For more recipes visit: www.TheHeartofNewEngland.com
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