Land of the Lotus-Eaters

Eyes light up, faces radiate happiness when people talk about their hopes for the future after the Jasmine Revolution. “Now we have freedom, now we can live,” says Corinne. “Freedom” is a word we hear often during our visit; so is “welcome”, from locals pleased to see visitors returning after the uprising.

We are taking a break in Djerba, an island in the Mediterranean Sea off the Tunisian mainland, which lies on the North African coast between Algeria and Libya. The island is linked to the seaside resort of Zarzis on the mainland by an old Roman causeway.

White painted buildings with domes and thick walls punctuate the landscape among olive and palm trees. It is springtime, so the national flower, jasmine, is not yet in bloom.

Most hotels are found along the soft, sandy stretch of Sidi Mahres Beach on the northeast coast, some with thalassotherapy centres, offering pampering spa and wellness treatments.

Peace, tranquillity, sun, sea, and sand make Djerba a great beach holiday destination, with restaurants, bars, and the Casino Partouche providing entertainment at night. Daytime leisure activities include water sports like scuba diving, catamarans, and jet skis, as well as golf, tennis, and horse riding. The island can also be a starting point for trips inland to the underground dwellings, oases, and hilltop villages of the Sahara.

Horses and Camels

On a warm, sunny morning, we arrive at Djerba’s Royal Carriage Club, a riding club and school with stables. As we admire the view over Flamingo Island Bay, the owner, Jacqui Tebourbi, who grew up in England near Ascot, says, “When the tide is in, the flamingos come right up to the shore, and during the summer season, kite surfers are out further up the beach”.

Our group heads off along quiet lanes, riding horses, camels, or following in two horse-drawn carriages with hoods made from Kelim rugs. Poppies and wild flowers carpet fields behind hedges of huge cacti, giant aloe vera plants, and bushes with long, stringy leaves called “camel spaghetti, because the camels like them so much”.

In the afternoon, two of the horsemen we met earlier ride up on the beach behind our hotel. “Please come and ride. You are welcome,” says Samir. The horses seem to enjoy the ride along the wet sand as much as we do, to the relaxing sound of splashing waves, with the sea breezes playing. Afterwards, the men and horses race away down the beach.

“Do you remember me from yesterday? Today I’m with the camels.” The next morning, the horsemen are back on the beach, this time dressed in long traditional robes instead of jeans, and leading three camels. Then an old man appears with two camels, both looking and behaving like overgrown cuddly toys; people posing for photographs with them risk being overwhelmed by their great, big sloppy kisses.

Pottery and Souks

A wide range of attractive pottery and ceramics can be seen decorating gardens and buildings; these have been made on the island for centuries. “The clay near the pottery village of Guellala is perfect,” our guide Khaled tells us, as we set off on our visit.

In a pottery workshop, shelves stacked high with colourful wares, Habib slaps a handful of wet clay on to his potter’s wheel, which he works expertly with his feet, quickly creating an ashtray and a jug. With a swift movement of his hand, he twists the perfectly shaped jug, points to the lopsided result and announces, “And this is a Picasso!” with mock pride.

Nearby, the Guellala Museum complex displays different aspects of Djerban culture such as music and wedding costumes, and includes a mill, where a hard-working camel presses olives to produce oil. The complex is built on the highest point on the island, 55 metres above sea level, with good views over Guellala towards the sea.

Houmt Souk, the island’s biggest town, has a large souk selling food, basketwork, ceramics, clothes, jewellery, and carpets. Marcel, a shopkeeper, is keen to sell us slippers made from camel hide. He demonstrates how to wear a striking "magic dress" as he miraculously transforms yards of fabric into a long dress, wrapping it under and over the body.

Next: According to Greek legend, Ulysses stopped here