THIS WAY TO COMFORT: The Captain Jefferds Inn provided quick access to the port. (Carole Jobin)

The great thing about Kennebunkport, Maine, is that you identify with the place almost immediately, as everything is in close proximity—not surprising for a town that was established in the 1600s.

Somehow this allows you to focus on your senses.

I notice this immediately listening to doves coo upon our arrival on Pearl Street at our first destination, an old sea captain’s house, the Captain Jefferds Inn.

The Captain Jefferds Inn

Pearl Street unfolded into a deep, rich sunset allowing us to adapt ourselves to the slow pace of this picture perfect little town. The former sea captain’s house is far enough from the sea to never be endangered by it, but close enough so that in the 21st century, it is a mere hop, skip, and a jump to the port.

Built in 1804, the captain’s house is a two-story beauty, built in the Federal period by Captain William Jefferds on the lane leading to Walkers Wharf. His father-in-law was Daniel Walker. Walker is a surname worth remembering when in Kennebunkport! (George Bush, Sr. married a local girl, a Walker, and still lives here on, you guessed it, Walker Point).

The Captain Jefferds Inn house, along with its storied connection to the West Indian trade captain, later belonged to Mrs. Constance Willy, considered the wealthiest woman in Maine in the 1960s. In a town where family background is important, the house has a perfect pedigree.

Sailing, Sailing

The next morning, serenaded by song birds, we caught the Schooner Eleanor for a morning sail. This 40-footer is a labor of love for its captain and owner, Rich Woodman. Descended from boat builders, Captain Rich built the boat from scratch—not surprisingly, he grew up in the house overlooking the wharf.

We walked a brisk two minutes from our inn to the schooner landing on the Kennebunk River. There ended the brisk part of the morning.

We slowly motored down the river to the sea, marveling at the quiet and beauty of the day. To our left, kayakers, small fishing boats, and million dollar yachts rubbed shoulders. To our right, the grounds of the Lithuanian Franciscan monastery provided another oasis of stillness.

TO THE SEA: The Schooner Eleanor was a relaxing way to get to know Kennebunkport, Maine.(Carole Jobin)

The captain’s dog, Hoss, marched about as if counting the passengers, and then, we hit the ocean, heading in the direction of Cape Porpoise.

As soon as we’re on the ocean, we rounded the cape passing St. Anne Church, (where the Bush family worships), and the sails were hoisted.

The rocking motion of the sailing boat took over, a calm sea breeze engulfed us, and the chatter amongst passengers stopped.

The experience was soundless save for a mournful bell attached to a permanent metallic buoy.

Then, action, in the form of George Bush, Sr., lurching out for a morning speed boat ride, catches our attention. His boat takes off in a direction opposite ours, secret service team in tow.

Friends at Sea

The other scene on the water is lobster fishermen. They would come up to the boat to chat with Captain Rich and he, in turn, explained the intricacies of the lobster fishing trade. But lobster aficionados should best take a separate lobster tour to get the full picture.

Our tour was so relaxed that the captain had time to look after his young son, (who had some duties as a crew member) and to answer any and all questions from passengers. He also had a crew of two adults. Their job seemed so pleasant, however, that I felt I had to ask them:
“Do they pay you, or do you pay them? (for the privilege of working on the boat!)”

THE ATLANTIC COAST: A picturesque scene of the Maine coastline. (Photos.com)

Coastal Cuisine

More indulging of the senses occurred, while eating in Kennebunkport. There were numerous restaurant near where we left the schooner. We opted for a clam chowder at the Arundel Wharf Restaurant and later supper at Bandaloop. The latter serves excellent seafood and has an eclectic selection of wine and beers from around the world.

Another meal involved a memorable steamed lobster dinner at Nunan’s Lobster Hut, a mom-and-pop kind of lobster shack, located at 9 Miles Road.

Along with a great lobster dinner (two lobsters for $24, washed down with Casco Bay Red Riptide Ale!), we experienced a torrential downpour while dining. When the lights went out, a great cheer erupted from the entire restaurant crowd. Who knows, maybe everyone was hoping that candles would be brought out and that we could eat our lobster the old fashioned way.

Alas, within moments the lights came on, accompanied by a long moan from the diners.

The next time we visit the area, which can’t be soon enough, we’ll hit some of the white tablecloth restaurants. And then we can revisit another B&B in the area, the charming Old Fort Inn. Imagine living in the center of the most elegant part of town, amongst million dollar homes with million dollar views of the sea. You get the picture.

Travel Recommendations:

Captain Jefferds Inn -- www.captainjefferdsinn.com
Old Fort Inn -- www.oldfortinn.com
Schooner Eleanor -- www.gwi.net/schoonersails

Both the Old Fort Inn and Captain William Jefferds can be accessed via the Select Registry website: www.selectregistry.com

Select Registry is an elite collection of 400 award-winning inns, B&Bs and boutique hotels located throughout North America.

Bruce Sach is a free-lance writer who hails from Canada.