Northern and Central Vietnam—Land of Movement and Transformation

SUMMARY: Following years of war and isolation, North Vietnam is well on the the way to finding a niche as a rare gem of the international travel scene. The country is being transformed, reviving aspects of its former grandeur as a pearl under French colonial rule, and measures are being taken to preserve cultural traditions, as well as natural settings, in its lush, enchanting environment.

Rice paddies as far as the eye can see. Their gleaming shades of green are a mere fraction of the hues in the kaleidoscopic range of color that is Vietnam.

Following long, harrowing years of war, Vietnam is moving forward today, evoking memories of the economic wonder years of post-World War II Germany. People everywhere are repairing, modernizing and constructing. The former French colonial pearl of old has been kissed awake from its Sleeping Beauty existence. In the forefront of these efforts is the completed refurbishing of the early 20th century “Sofitel Metropolis Hanoi,” once heralded as “the most famous hotel east of the Suez Canal.” Its preserved registry displays a colorful cast of characters of the hotel’s hey day, such as Somerset Maugham, Charlie Chaplin and Graham Greene.

Following its completed renovation, its present-day elite have returned - the likes of Oliver Stone and Mick Jagger, who feel at home in the midst of the recreated splendor of former colonial rule. And it is not merely they alone who indulge. Others can afford to revel in a one or two-night stay at the “Sofitel” in “South-East Asia’s most beautiful metropolis.” It is but a short distance from the hotel to the old parts of town, colorful and quirky, best viewed from the advantage of a bicycle taxi.

One of the old town's treasures is the legendary water puppet theater. The backdrop is a countryside pond, where puppets suddenly cavort in exuberant play: dragons dance on moving water, rice farmers celebrate their harvest, and a boat race stirs the emotions. The whole seems to be a metaphor for the country’s colorful agricultural origins.

This show serves as a prelude for an excursion from the bustling metropolis into the countryside. The route leads toward the hills and the hill people, with their traditional ways of life. And it is also en-route to world-famous Halong Bay, where three thousand tiny islands and rock formations transform the coastline into a dramatically complex, labyrinthine landscape.

How vastly different is the landscape along Vietnam's mountain ridge! Named "Long Mountain," it stretches for more than 1,000 km southward, as if attempting to be the backbone of the nation, offering the country rigid support. Central Vietnam's capital, Hué, situated on both sides of the Perfume River, appears to be like a city from out of a picture book. The mighty Imperial Citadel abutts the river's edge. It is the most convincing proof of the once former glory and grandeur of the Vietnam's 19th century Nguyen-Dynasty. These structures have long since been under UNESCO protection.

This was once the home of Emperor Minh Mang. As the story goes, courtiers had a difficult time selecting a suitable transitory mate for their ruler, from among 300 women in the harem. Their strategy was to place a bundle of grasses before each woman's chamber the night before. When feeding time came, they led a male goat into the harem quarters. The male goat, according to the principle of odd, made the decision [for the emperor's tryst]. Whether or not he was informed of this selection process remains in dispute.

This imposing backdrop is also the venue for the ritual opening of the Hué-Festivals, where for an entire week, artists from around the globe demonstrate and display their arts and crafts, and, for two weeks, this city is lit from within. The most recent bi-annual festival was in 2008. The festival offers a convoy of dragon boats that glide in a long procession along the Perfume River, heading toward the Imperial Pagoda, one of the nation's most well-recognized religious symbols. The adjoining cloisters house humble monks, who cultivate according to traditional Buddhist ways.

Imperial burial grounds and hotels, markets and museums—Hué knows how to enchant its visitors. But Central Vietnam has more to offer, including “Cultural Monuments Road.” It leads past "Cloud Pass" to Da Nang, where in the far distance the "Marble Mountains" with their craggy caves come into view. My Son, capital of the former Cham-Empire, peaks one’s interest. A few of the once numerous treasured temple ruins have withstood the ravages of the “American War,” and evoke a solemn atmosphere. But the indisputable highlight of the area is the small town of Hoi An, picturesquely situated on the shores of the Thu Bon River, ever more resembling a Vietnamese version “Rothenburg at the Tauber River” in Germany. A once flourishing trade hub, the enterprising inhabitants have long since grasped the opportunity UNESCO had offered them, transforming their town into a quaint, scenic open-air museum.

This town’s produce and fish market is one of Vietnam’s most attractive. It offers visitors the opportunity to participate in a cooking course of Vietnamese specialties. Head chef, Thanh, from the Red Bridge Restaurant, initiates participants into the secrets of Vietnamese cuisine. It is an epiphany for all who are enthused about the use of exotic herbs and spices.

The enchanted circle began at “Sofitel Metropolis Hanoi,” closing with a visit to the “The Nam Hai“ in Hoi An, a recipient of many awards in the ultra-super modern ocean resort category. The focal point of this location are water features as smooth as glass, framed by long rows of palm, that which seem to meld, gradually and nearly imperceptibly, into the distant ocean surf. Lush greenery shields the guest bungalows with their airy and unusual interior design, with beds arranged to give the appearance of islands floating in the ocean.

In this land of old-world charm and tropical beauty, traditional and modern comforts harmonize side by side. Following years of war and isolation, the nation is well on the way to finding a niche as a rare gem of choice international travel spots.

Read the original article in German.