Would the legendary Assyrian Queen Semiramis count these terraced vineyards as one of the Seven Wonders of the World instead of her Hanging Gardens of Babylon?
UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) recognized the uniqueness of the terraces in the Canton Waadt at Lake Geneva in Switzerland and included them as a special Cultural Heritage Site in 2007.
Twenty-three of Switzerland's 25 cantons, or geographical divisions, are wine growing areas. There are approximately 3 sq. mi. (840 hectares) of vinyards above Lake Geneva between Montreux and Lausanne. What is it that makes these vinyards so special?
It all began in the 11th century. Cistercian monks terraced the 585 meter (0.36 mi.) high hill with walls in stair-step fashion. The effort included 10,000 terraces and about 450 km. (280 mi.) of stonewalls.
Not only do the vintners profit from this arrangement to protect the grapes, the grape vines also benefit. Sunlight is reflected off Lake Geneva during the day and the heat stored in the walls is given off at night. This leads to a substantial wine yield—more than five million liters of high-quality wine per year. Such is the reward of manually tending the grapes.
Eight excellent wines are the result of the vintners' labors, all derived from their chief grape variety. The wines are Chasselas Calamin, Chardonne, Dézaley, Epesses, Lutry, St-Saphorin, Vevey-Montreux, and Villette.
Next to Fendant from Wallis, Chasselas is one of the best-known Swiss white wines. It is suitable for almost all dishes, is particularly good with fish, and is also favored as an aperitif. We recommend "Filets de perche,“ a type of land-locked salmon, sautéed in butter, accompanied by a glass of Chasselas.
The area also grows a couple of red grapes—Gamay and Pinot Noir.
Lake Geneva, or "Lac Leman," as the French-speaking citizens of Switzerland call it in Suisse Romand, is a perfect place for growing grapes because of the climate and soil properties.
Hikers, walkers, and those traveling by car find their way around the "Route du Vignoble,” past a sign made with stylized grape vine, right through the vineyards. The villages sport only a few houses.
Tanned, bikini-clad girls and boys in scant shorts—mostly guest workers—cultivate the grapevines by hand. An incline of 70 degrees prevents machinery from doing the work. But this absence of machinery guarantees visitors the serenity and meditative environment they seek.
In the center of each village is a church—some of them handsome enough to grace a postage stamp, such as the one in Fechy in Canton Waadt. Refreshing and cool well water quenches one's thirst.
Once one has passed the charming picture-postcard villages, wine estates, and manor houses, all roads and paths through the vineyards eventually end at a wine cellar—the Caveau. Who would not want to cap off the study of grapevines—whether in bloom, prior to, or during the harvest—with a glass of a young, or a century-harvest, wine?
Several options invite people to acquaint themselves with the Lavaux vineyards. The setting is unequaled. Frequent stops along the route at the many tasting cellars invite visitors to enjoy the view: from the lake level looking upward across the terraces, or from the top looking down toward the water. The lake's deep blue water reflects the snow-capped Savoy Alps.
An additional option entices people to board the yellow vineyard train, the "Train des Vignes," for the 13 km. (~8 mi.) ride from Vevey to Puidoux-Chexbres. Even the tiny villages offer an opportunity for rest, wine sampling, and a chance to browse through the local clock museum.
A ride on a boat across the lake is a must, and even nostalgic sternwheelers are available. They cruise past the vineyards, the luxury town of Montreux, and the Chateau de Chillon. Lord Byron commemorated this castle forever in his world-renowned ballad, "The Prisoner of Chillon." It stands on a rocky island and is Switzerland's best-preserved edifice from the 12th century.
Lake Geneva is the World Headquarters for the Nestle Company. Nestle has established an informational exhibit relating to food and nutrition called the Alimentarium.
The area has also been a drawing card for many prominent visitors. Philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau resided at the present-day ”Café de la Clef“ between 1730 and 1731. Russian novelist Dostoyevsky arrived in 1868, and 1942 saw the arrival of Romanian piano virtuoso, Clara Haskil. Ernest Hemingway also visited Lake Geneva.
The Jenisch Gallery houses works by Oskar Kokoschkas. Charlie Chaplin had made the Inn at Vevey—the "Waadtländer Blumenriviera“—his chosen home. He is buried in the neighboring Village of Corsier. The town hosts the International Comedy Festival every other year in October.
The French lovingly nicknamed Charlie Chaplin "Charlot" and his statue at the lake promenade faces forever toward the snow-capped Savoy Alps. Admirers often grace the statue with roses.
Those who would ride the Funiculaire, or cable car, over the vineyards to the 1,000 meter (3,281 ft.) high Mont-Pèlerin have at their feet the shimmering lake at Vevey, whose lake promenade is like those in spa towns and is lovingly called the "Swiss Riviera.” Visitors will be overwhelmed by the magic at their feet. The hotel, Le Mirador, situated very high there, is now managed by the Kempinski Hotel Group and carries its name proudly. From the hotel, one can enjoy an unobstructed panoramic view of the whole area.
Information:
Travel Guide: Reiter, Barbara; Wistuba, Michael, Lake Geneva Region, 256 pages; 15,90 EUR, ISBN 978-3-89953-280-7, www.michael-mueller-verlag.de
E-Mail: info@myswitzerland.com, www.MySwitzerland.com
