There’s a lot of “matcha” about but, in common with many other teas, I suspect that much of it is not really matcha. True matcha must be shade-grown and stoneground. Non-stoneground powdered teas are more finely ground, so are easier to use, but do not produce the same texture when whisked which, to my mind and taste buds, is a great part of the pleasure of drinking matcha.
In addition to the low-grade matchas and non-matchas produced in Japan, (China, the traditional home of matcha, having lost its matcha culture in the thirteenth century) China, it is said, is once again producing matcha. China also produces other Japanese-style green teas such as sencha, some of which are exported to Japan for canned teas. Of these, some find their way to the UK. Some is clearly labelled as Chinese, some not. As I’ve written before honesty about terroir and varietals is important. I’m still amazed how little some people care about what they introduce into their bodies.
Let’s be clear, though, there is nothing wrong with teas from China where some of the greatest teas are grown. Teas grown merely for export and often in factory type farms, do however have an air of illegitimacy which makes them undesirable.
Alex Fraser runs east teas, now relocated in the new Jubilee Market of Borough Market, London, on Fridays 12-6 and Saturdays 9-4. contact via epoch@eastteas.com.
