Exuding warmth and energy, Nana divides her time between sitting by Telly’s entrance and cooking in the restaurant’s kitchen. She is always happy to serve her patrons who have been her loyal followers for years. Her loyal following might be due to her skill in cultivation of great connections with farmers, fishermen, and other first-rate suppliers of her restaurant. This and her exceptional culinary prowess translate into getting the best at Telly’s, prepared with love.
Telly’s iconic taverna is located in the once-Greek enclave of Astoria, now a diverse community.
The casual, neighborhood eatery, a crowd pleaser, serves classical Greek food, in a simply decorated atmosphere. A seascape mural on one side of the wall in the front room is a fitting backdrop for the refrigerated glass display of Nina’s fresh finds for the day. Standing behind, a chef is busily grilling the offering from the sea, evoking a sense of being in Greece. Brick walls with a fireplace on one end of the room surround the main dining area. The ambiance is casual, comfortable, and cozy, while the service is superbly friendly and efficient.
Most of the fish is simply and deliciously grilled over charcoal and drizzled with fabulous Greek olive oil and fresh lemon juice. The grilled fish can be served whole or deboned and can be ordered fried as well. Greeks are well-known for the simple preparation of octopus; it arrived at our table tender, char broiled, and with a drizzle of lemon juice and olive oil only to its allure.
My several visits there never failed to make me want to return. Each experience was better than the previous one. The simple menu offers appetizers such as one of my childhood favorites, fried meatballs ($8), baked lima beans (8), and saganaki (pan-fried cheese) ($10). The main dishes consist mostly of fish such as porgy, black sea bass (market price), red mullet (barbounia) ($12), smelts ($12), and sardines ($14). The meats are charbroiled, such as lamb chops ($22), rib-eye steaks ($22), and calf’s liver ($16).
My friends and I usually order our beloved saganaki, the aromatic, sharp, fried kefalograviera sheep’s milk cheese. It has become a tradition for us to always order this and the onion-and-tomato infused baked lima beans for a starter. The beans melt in your mouth. Our usual main course choice is the grilled fish of the day and sometimes fried barbonia, accompanied by side dishes like mixed grilled vegetables, zucchini, eggplant, and lemon-roasted potatoes, which is sinful not to have, or sautéed kale or spinach. The portions are big and satisfying, leaving one sated without a feeling of heaviness. A light retsina wine aids the digestion of all these culinary pleasures.
Complimentary loukoumades brings back wonderful childhood memories of my mother who made them for us as snacks. These are balls of fried dough, smothered with honey and cinnamon. With an accompaniment of the famous Greek coffee, this pastime ensures you stay awake while driving home.
Afkharisto Poli Nana and Yassou! (Thank you Nana, and see you again!)
Location: 28-13 23rd Ave., between 28th and 29th Street, Queens, N.Y. 718-728-9056.
Hours: Monday-Friday and Sunday 11:00 a.m.–midnight; Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m.–1:00 a.m.
