Gettysburg Gourmet Part 2

By John Christopher Fine Created: Oct 22, 2009 Last Updated: Oct 22, 2009
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AT HERR RIDGE: the filet mignon sauce is made with house special red wine. (John Christopher Fine)
A little outside of town at 900 Chambersburg Road, U.S. Route 30, is the Inn at Herr Ridge. The Confederate Army used this road when it marched toward and then retreating from the Battle of Gettysburg. Wagons containing wounded soldiers making for South Pass in the Blue Ridge Mountains stretched 17 miles as they passed the Inn. Every building and every yard became a field hospital.

The Herr Tavern and Public House was built in 1815, named for Frederick Herr who took it over in 1828. The tavern cellar was part of the Underground Railroad. On June 30, 1863, Union General John Buford’s cavalry camped on Herr Ridge. Confederate General Henry Heth’s forces overran the area and pushed the Union forces back. The building became a hospital. Steve Wolf bought the building in 1977, and has spent a quarter-century turning it back into an elegant inn and fine dining restaurant.

Dan, the restaurant manager, serves in tuxedo shirt with studs and black apron. It is clear that great care and preparation have gone into everything here at Herr Ridge. The 38-page wine list is a half-inch thick and contains over 800 selections.

“Steve, the owner, loves to learn about wine, loves to drink it. It is his passion. Wait until you see our cellar. There are 5,000 bottles of wine in storage, and we are expanding it every month. There are tables in the cavern for special dining. All hand-painted walls,” Beth Senseney, the inn’s general manager said.

In addition to the main restaurant, the inn operates a 16-room bed-and-breakfast in the historic house and a tavern next door. While the ambiance is elegant and the service akin to any fine dining establishment, prices are affordable. Wines by the glass include Riff Pinot Grigio, $10, California Chardonnay, $7, and Barefoot Bubbly Brut from California, $10. By-the-bottle wines are listed by country then by varietal. Under Africa, Chardonnay, Excelsior Robertson 2005, $21. France, Ferret, Pouilly Fuisse 2004, $78. For Champagnes the list includes pricey Louis Roederer Cristal 1997, $515, Moet and Chandon Dom Perignon 1996, $225.

Bread is served with roasted garlic and olive oil. There are house-baked pretzel rolls, focaccia, and crusty bread from a bakery in town. The chefs have prepared a tasting menu with or without paired wines ($80 without and $120 with wines). Selections on the tasting menu are smaller portions from the main menu.

SOUS CHEF KYLE ENSOR: In Herr Ridge's extensive wine cellar under the tavern. Dining in the cave is also available for private parties. (John Christopher Fine)
Starters, called Little Plates here, include crab and corn chowder, $5, heirloom tomato gazpacho diver scallop ceviche, $7, and even baby crab cakes with micro greens, $12. Big plates, the main courses, feature black Angus filet mignon with port wine demi-glace served with stuffed potato, $35. Shrimp tempura with local white corn and heirloom chutney tomatoes, $29, grilled line-caught swordfish with tarragon hollandaise, and roasted mini cipollini onions with black mission fig, $29.

“The menu changes weekly. We call our fish purveyor and ask ‘What did you catch fresh?’ We do everything from scratch. We’ve developed a prix fixe menu since Steve wants more local clientele. There are so many professional people living in the area [who] seek out fine dining. It is a job we love. There is always something new,” sous chef Kyle Ensor said.

The gas jet fireplace works and is lit in cold weather. There are flowers on the mantle and still life paintings on the walls. Oriental rugs grace wood floors. Padded armchairs and fine table settings with lamplight and fresh flowers adorn the presentation. Desserts include homemade sorbets that cleanse the palate along with fine coffees and after-dinner drinks from the wine cellar.

The restaurant is closed Mondays. Call for reservations 800-362-9849 or 717-334-4332 or visit their Web site at herrtavern.com



 
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