Recipes Ancient Romans Would Love

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Research shows that in ancient times, the Romans actually preferred reading recipe books to odes. The Roman Persius said approximately 21 centuries ago that the palate was “the teacher of art and the giver of ingenuity.” I can say that my first taste of authentic ancient Roman cuisine in Trier, Germany—prepared from ancient Roman recipes—whetted my appetite for more.

At banquets, it was usual to serve a pre-dinner cocktail called “Mulsum” made from dry wine and honey, then appetizers such as pickled beets, hard-boiled eggs, and raw vegetables such as broccoli and carrot sticks (eaten as dessert in ancient Rome but as a prelude to the meal by the first century A.D.). This was followed by the “Mensae Primae” or main course. Desserts were then served. Wines were served throughout the meal, such as red wine from Tuscany and Greek retsina.

Here are translations of two recipes from a cookbook by Apicius, a Roman gourmet, written in the first century A.D.

Chicken Varius  

Serves 4 to 6

40 ml (3 tbsp) olive oil                             
l onion, diced                           
2 celery stalks, chopped
1 carrot, sliced
2 1-kg (2-lb) chickens
Bouquet garni—2 leeks, several parsley sprigs, 4 coriander seeds, 5 peppercorns, 2 ml (1/2 tsp) summer savoury         
5 ml (1 tsp) salt
2 ml (1/2 tsp) pepper
250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine

Heat oil in a large casserole that has a cover. Simmer onion with the other vegetables until soft. Add chicken, bouquet garni (tied in cheesecloth), salt and pepper. Pour in the wine and enough water to cover. Simmer covered till tender, around 45 to 50 minutes. Strain off broth, setting aside 375 ml (1 1/2 cups). Keep chicken warm and serve with the following sauce.

Sauce:
25 ml (2 tbsp) pine nuts
375 ml (1 1/2 cups) broth (reserved from above recipe)
25 ml (2 tbsp) butter
25 ml (2 tbsp) flour
2 egg yolks
125 ml (1/2 cup) whipping cream
25 ml (2 tbsp) lemon juice
15 ml (1 tbsp) dry sherry

Pound pine nuts and add to broth. In a medium-sized skillet melt butter, add flour and stir for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the broth mixture and continue stirring over low heat until thick. Simmer for 15 minutes over very low heat. Beat egg yolks into whipping cream and slowly add some of the hot sauce, stirring well. Pour back into the pan, heating until very hot, stirring continuously. Add lemon juice. Taste for seasoning, and then add dry sherry just before serving.

Roman Custard

Serves 6 to 8

1 litre (4 cups) milk
10 ml (2 tsp) pure vanilla
125 ml (1/2 cup) honey  
25 ml (2 tbsp) sugar
1 ml (1/4 tsp) salt
4 whole eggs                                      
2 egg yolks
2 ml (1/2 tsp) grated lemon rind

Preheat the oven to 180º C (350º F). Mix honey and sugar together. Scald milk; add vanilla, honey-sugar mixture and the salt. Cool. Beat eggs with the extra yolks. Add cooled milk to eggs. Beat until smooth. Add lemon rind. Pour into custard cups or a 1 1/2- litre (6-cup) mould. Bake in a pan of water for 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the mould or cups. Custard is cooked when a knife comes out clean.

Susan Hallett is an award-winning writer and editor who has written for The Beaver, The Globe & Mail, Wine Tidings and Doctor’s Review among many others. Email: hallett_susan@hotmail.com