Wine: There’s more to it than Chardonnay and Merlot

By John J. Mahoney, Ph.D., C.W.E. Created: Aug 6, 2009 Last Updated: Aug 6, 2009
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Wines come in many varieties and from many countries; these are from India. (Dibyangshu Sarkar/AFP/Getty Images)
Just over one year ago I wrote about Vermentino, Vernaccia, and Verdicchio, Italy’s three white wines that all surpass Pinot Grigio’s watery quality. Many readers began to sample some of these wines and found that the quest for greater dining pleasure means experiencing many different wines. Some readers wrote and asked about other less-known grapes and flavors. Sticking to the “V” theme of “V”-named wine grapes, I suggested Viognier, now an almost common grape, Viura and Verdejo from Spain, and Verduzzo, another Italian grape.

Recently, I had the interesting job of reviewing newly released Portuguese wines and was pleased to learn that the best of the lot came from traditional Portuguese grapes. Red grapes like Touriga Nacional, already well-known because it is the best of the top five red grapes used in making Porto, is also used to create a red table wine with dark-berry fruit aromas, hints of eucalyptus, and lingering tannin. It makes wines than can age. The Aragonez is called Tinta Roiz in some Portuguese locations and Tempranillo in Spain.

Most people have tried the Spanish examples. Baga produces a full-bodied red that is complex, tannic, and smoky. It has aromas of blackcurrants, blackberries, herbs, and pepper. If you’ve enjoyed big Zinfandels because of their spicy pepper, you would like this red from both the Douro and Dão. I noted that reds made from this grape, or at least with a majority of this grape, could easily age a decade and develop a rich tobacco and leather nose that would compliment any grilled red meat or mushroom dish. These are smooth and easy-to-drink wines.

The most interesting white grapes were Fernão Pires, the most-planted white variety in Portugal, the Arinto, which is called Pederna in Vinho-verde, and has balanced acid, notes of pineapple, and lemon zest and is capable of being aged. There’s also the Encruzado grape, which covers the Dão region. Its floral and mineral aromas show nicely even though the wines are usually fermented in oak to add complexity. Alvarinho is a low-yielding grape with aromas of peach, apple, and basic citrus fruits. Its mineral character makes it perfect for shellfish and may be even better than Chablis.

White summer wines are made in the Vinho Verde (the green wine district) of Portugal. They are light, crisp, and usually have a slightly petulant fizz that refreshes. They always have lime, apple, and wildflower aromas. These inexpensive whites (less than $10 a bottle and many times around $5) are made with the little known Alvarinho, Trajadura, Loureiro, and Vinhão grapes. It seems the varieties of great wine grapes are endless. No wonder wine lovers never tire of wine tastings, wine parties, and wine dinners. All are events to further your wine knowledge and places to increase the pleasures of your lifestyle.

As summer follows spring, I should list some Greek wines for outdoor grilling. Roditis makes excellent whites and roses. Moscofilero from the Peloponnesian area is a white second to none to pair with fish. The Athiri, another white, has the scent of stone fruits like nectarines. Agiorgitiko is a red with velvety, black-cherry flavors and there’s Xinomavro red or the jasmine-scented Malagousia white. The list goes on and on. Look for any of these wines when you plan your next party or host your wine-tasting group.



 
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