Pho Sure: For Comfort and Dining Pleasure

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Saigon use to be known as the “Paris of the East.” This name perhaps reflects memories the French occupation of Vietnam and its effect on that nation’s culinary traditions. The Vietnamese subsequently, became fond of the baguette and sandwiches like Banh Mi (seasoned pork sandwich) and Bo Luc Lac, a superb dish that translates as “shaken beef.” (Recipe follows). And who could ignore the Vietnamese’s fondness for iced coffee, ca-phe sua da? China also influenced Vietnam’s culinary diversity. China introduced the Vietnamese to noodles. The Vietnamese, especially in the dish called Pho, have since made noodles their own.

Most Vietnamese consider Pho, a noodle soup based on simple, colorful, and highly flavorful components, their national signature dish. It contains another national staple, nuoc mam, an anchovies-based seasoning sauce no Vietnamese kitchen is ever without. Another traditional sauce is the Nuoc Cham, a delightfully piquant seasoning mix containing garlic, chili pepper, sugar, lime juice, and vinegar. This sauce is often used to flavor salads, marinades, dipping sauces, and soups.

At the Pho Sure restaurant in New York City’s Greenwich Village, my friend and I, satisfying our craving for a memorable Vietnamese meal, sat at table close to the open kitchen. The enticing aromas emanating from the kitchen had us salivating. Our shared appetizer was the Hue’s Summer Rolls ($8), made with pickled shrimp and pork belly wrapped in rice paper and herbs, a classic. It was fresh, light, and aromatic. The robust sauce shocked, with a kind of naughtiness, and superbly complemented the fresh mint in the roll. Pho Sure is a two-section eatery. The Baoguette area in the front, serving a variety of Vietnamese sandwiches, is simple, and features dark wood booths. The back also features dark woods, but with the addition of ceiling-hung fabrics and lights casting soft shadows. A blackboard in the front section lists the day’s menu.

Pho Sure’s, chef/partner Sean Scotese told me the menu’s listing is a play on the Vietnamese national dish, emphasizing flavors and attention to detail and refinement. The driving force behind this version of Pho is partner Michael Bao, whose last name means “good.” Michael is a Saigon-born architect who took on cooking as a hobby. He is referred to as the “architect chef” who developed the menu’s concept: small and playful, a cross between traditional and modern interpretations. Pho Sure’s prices are affordable, and the entire concept is designed for New Yorkers.

The broth for the eatery’s signature dish, the Pho, customarily stocked with rice noodles, meats, and herbs, is beef-based. Several exotic spices are added: star anise, black cardamom, cinnamon, and a hot sauce. Serving sizes are up to the diner, as are the selections of meat.

The menu also includes various preparations of fresh wraps, nicely augmented with fresh herbs, providing contrast in texture and flavor for seemingly endless varieties of lettuce and rice wraps. These contrast and balance the crispy spring rolls and smooth wraps, served hot and cold. Different types of basil, Thai basil, lemon basil, “holy basil,” as well as fresh mint, cilantro, and Vietnamese coriander all add fragrance and flavor to the dishes.

The highlight of our meal during this visit was the Pan Fried Rice Cake ($13), topped with fried duck eggs, sunny side up, and Chinese sausage, garnished with pickled papaya, steamed radish, mixed with sweet soy and scallion. This dish was made with finesse. The rich flavors of the sweet soy combined with the acidity of the transparent and pickled papaya against the smooth rice pancake and the salty, crispy sausage felt like an intensely pleasing burst of flavor in your mouth.

We followed this with a large bowl of Pho Sure ($8) with eye-round steak, brisket and shin, sliced very thin, sitting on top of the noodles in a flavorful fish broth, made with at least 10 ingredients such as grilled ginger, charred shallots, star anise, and cinnamon. Looking at my friend and noticing how she slurped it convinced me that this is really comfort food. My friend’s face changed color; she became alive and happy as she murmured, “Mmm, it is really good and does not feel heavy.”

We will definitely visit Pho Sure again!

Pho Sure are located at 120 Christopher Street, New York, NY 10014, (212) 929-0877

Web site: www.baoguette.com

Hours: Baoguette: Every day 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Pho Sure: Mon through Wed and Sun 11 a.m. to midnight, Thu through Sat 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.

Cash only and no reservations required.

SHAKING BEEF
Ingredients
• 1/2 pound lean sirloin steaks, cubed
• 6 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon fish sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3 teaspoons olive oil
• 1 onion, sliced
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
• 1 pinch black pepper
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 cups watercress leaves

Method:
Mix together garlic, fish sauce, sugar, salt, and 2 teaspoons of olive oil in a shallow dish or re-sealable plastic bag. Add beef and to allow marinate for 30 minutes or more. Mix together black pepper, vinegar, and marinate onion in this mixture for 10 to 15 minutes. Then combine onion mixture with the oil and toss. Arrange watercress on a plate and spread onion on top. Heat remaining oil in a pan and stir-fry marinated beef until seared to desired doneness, being careful not to overcook. Spread beef over onions on watercress and serve.