Champion Teas

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A new black tea has arrived Hong Yun—Red Cloud. It is made by Mrs Liu of the famous Pu-erh-making family in Xishuangbanna in Yunnan, also historically famous for black teas. The Liu’s trees vary in age from 100 to 800 years old and production is very limited, a long way off three figures in kilos. Their puerhs and white tea are very special. Its production is wonderfully simple: hand-picked, withered outdoors, in the shade, and sun-dried. That has the feel of unsophisticated times but the result is astounding. Robust and complex. I don’t have the inclination to try it but the addition of milk would be a distinct possibility for those who feel that they need it.

Something I’ve not ever tasted before, a Gui Fei “Concubine” oolong from Taiwan. It’s another rolled Qingxing varietal but distinctly different from others, being more heaviy oxidised and as it falls into the category of insect-nibbled teas as do Bai Hao (White Tip) oolongs also known as Oriental (wince) Beauty (CHINESE), hence the Concubine nonemclature of this innovative tea.

On only two tastings, I’m reluctant to say too much but floral, sweet, vegetal – in the manner of first flush Darjeelings. Very interesting, and certainly to be further explored. Read my lips.

This Spring’s Fu Shou Shan (Lucky Life Mountain) from the Veteran’s Farm (fruit and tea, not unlike Mr Aoki in Kyushu) that surrounds Chiang Kai Shek’s old summer villa is very delicious again and still being served at state functions in Taiwan. I’m tying to limit teas that are too similar from the range but Tim and I agree that this is a champion. Other Qingxing varietals will eventually slip away to make space for these newcomers. And others, surely.

Alex runs east teas in Borough Market, London, Friday 12-6 p.m. and Saturday 9-4 p.m. Email epoch@eastteas.com