The Tradition of Hanami
“Hanami is very important to the Japanese when we celebrate the start of spring and the time for new beginnings,” explained our local guide. “It symbolizes the samurai spirit, ‘bushido,’ in the cherry blossom's willingness to wilt and die in honor of our country.”
Hanami is a time-old tradition harking back to the 8th century Heian period when the aristocratic classes in Kyoto indulged in leisure activities during this season. Hanami was consolidated by the Shogun Hideyoshi in the spring of 1598 when he called for a large hanami festival to celebrate his victory of unifying Japan under his control.
Back to contemporary times, I traveled on a Cherry Blossom tour of Japan with Samurai Tours to track the progress of “sakura zensen”—the cherry blossom front— from Kyushu Island to Kyoto and western Japan up to Tokyo, while immersing myself in Japanese culture.
I visited the classic cherry blossom sites. There is Ueno Park in Tokyo, the environs of Himeji Castle, and the Momijihodo nature walk on the scenic Miyajima Island. I also visited Hiroshima Memorial Peace Park and Maruyama park in Kyoto. “It's like strolling through fairyland, how divinely ethereal,” I mused, when I visited Ueno Park surrounded by a canopy of pink and white blossoms.
What brings such airy-fairy thoughts down to reality is the presence of bright blue tarps under these blossoming trees. On the tarps were gathered Japanese families, friends, and colleagues. They were all celebrating the advent of a new year and optimistic self-renewal, laden with their bento boxes of packed food and the staple Japanese alcoholic beverage—sake. Needless to say, the atmosphere was buoyant at this time of the year in Japan.
In keeping with the hanami tradition, cherry blossom cuisine is produced throughout Japan. I savored delectable “sakura mochi” (cherry blossom rice cakes) in Kamakura as well as cherry blossom ice cream and chiffon cakes in Osaka. Each cake was topped with a single, salted yet edible cherry blossom leaf.
Living in Japanese Style
Japan is such a culturally rich country. It is impossible not to soak up its cultural heritage through the plethora of Buddhist temples co-existing with Shinto shrines. And then there is the traditional cuisine and the will to experience the Japanese inn, or “ryokan,” along with the accompanying hot spring public baths called “onsen.”
“I feel as if I am in another world altogether,” I commented as I slipped on the light cotton kimono, or “yukata,” which is meant to be worn as a bath robe or pajamas in the inn. I was prepared for the night’s slumber on a futon with paper shoji sliding screens and a charming alcove with a traditional hanging scroll of Japanese calligraphy and a vase of flowers aesthetically arranged in the ikebana tradition.
To provide a contrast, I also stayed at the exclusive Hyatt hotels in Tokyo; the Grand Hyatt in the vibrant, up-market Rippongi Hills; and the Regency Hyatt in Tokyo's skyscraper district, Shinjiku. These hotels provide comfort par excellence for the world traveler, not to mention ideal bases from which to explore the city.
I enjoyed it all—from the Egyptian cotton linens, spacious rooms, haute shabu-shabu, or hotpot, Japanese cuisine at Shunbou in the Grand Hyatt to the scenic views overlooking the cherry blossom-laden Shinjiku Park framed by Mt. Fuji in the background and the tastiest traditional kaiseki (multi-course) meal I have ever eaten at Kakou in the Regency Hyatt. It proved to be a deeply relaxing experience, especially after the fortnight dash across Japan in search of the cherry blossom.
So Much to Enjoy!
For a change from temple-hopping and shopping, and in order to gain a greater appreciation of traditional Japanese culture, I indulged in a number of hands-on experiences in Kyoto. The spectacle of the Miyako Odori dance performance by the geishas of the Gion District in Kyoto was a feast for the eyes and only occurs during the month of April.
To add to the geisha experience, we met a “maiko,” the geisha's apprentice, who served us green tea, or “matcha,” and answered our barrage of questions about the daily life of the contemporary geisha, which is very much a living tradition in Japanese society.
With the Women's Association of Kyoto, I visited a kimono artist's private home to take a home-cooking class. We prepared and then savored teriyaki chicken, miso soup, wasame salad, “horen-so no goma-ae”—spinach with Kyoto pot herb mustard—and deep-fried tofu.
This was followed by a lesson in performing the traditional Japanese tea ceremony while elegantly adorned in a glorious “sakura” (cherry blossom) silk kimono. Needless to say, it provided a fascinating insight into Japanese traditional culture.
The vibrancy of Tokyo's nightlife is not to be missed, either. Sunrise Tour's Tokyo Nightlife tour provided an alternative perspective on the bright lights of Tokyo by night. This included many highlights, from the Rippongi Hills Observatory with vast panoramic views of the sprawling Tokyo cityscape to the Statue of Liberty replica on the manmade island of Odaiba via the Rainbow Bridge under which pleasure boats, or “yakatabune,” float along the bay.
Japan, is a country that presents great diversity. You can go from the country’s delicate cherry blossoms, ancient temples, tea ceremonies, and kimono-clad geishas to its modern urban side consisting of futuristic skyscrapers, capsule hotels, pachinko (pinball) parlors, and neon lights—where Hello Kitty is revered as a deity by youth. All in all, there’s something for everyone to relish and enjoy.
Jasleen traveled to Japan with Samurai Tours (www.samuraitours.com), stayed at the Grand & Regency Hyatt hotels (www.hyatt.com), experienced Kyoto culture with WAK JAPAN (www.wakjapan.com) and Tokyo nightlife with Sunrise Tours (www.jtb-sunrisetours.jp/)
Jasleen Kandhari is an Asian art historian with a passion for travel and exploring cultural horizons. She has published numerous travel and culinary articles as well as covered exhibitions on Asia, Europe, and North America.
