The South of France’s Port Camargue

A Sleepy Fisherman’s Village Turned Tourist Haven

By Elke Backert Created: Jun 14, 2009 Last Updated: Jun 14, 2009
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With 4,600 moorings, Camargue is one of Europe's largest yacht harbors
With 4,600 moorings, Camargue is one of Europe's largest yacht harbors. (Courtesy of Elke Backert)

Le Grau-du-Roi is a Mediterranean coastal resort community in the Gard region of Southern France. Here one can experience the charm of a southern French fishing village, with the luxury of one of Europe's most grandiose yacht and sporting harbors.

Members of the ruling royal family named the French fishing village "Le Grau du Roi," adding their titles to this natural canal opening situated in France's Rhone Delta, which lies to the west of the Languedoc region. This is a village that has been transformed from a quaint, idyllic fishing village to a popular tourist magnet.

Up until 1850, a mere 500 inhabitants called the tiny village home. Since then, it has evolved into a treasured vacation destination for many, where the visitors far outnumber the locals. It's no wonder too, especially when one can walk along the 18 km of amazingly pristine, sandy beaches, with stretches as wide as 700 meters. The bathing area is devoid of abruptly deep and treacherous shoals, and with sparkling clear and clean ocean water, its beaches are especially child-friendly.

Local fishermen still ply their trade each morning, selling the previous evening’s fresh catch along the seashore. Locals and tourists alike line up in front of their booths to purchase the fresh seafood. The fishing fleet now numbers 45 boats, one of the largest along France’s Mediterranean coast. Most of these carry small purse seines.

Demands of tourism led to the commission of architect Jean Balladur. In the 1960 and 70’s, he helped build the grandest of Europe's vacation harbors, La Grande-Motte, complete with nearby apartment dwellings and the capacity for mooring 4,600 boats. The city can accommodate up to 30,000 people, and there are many privately owned villas, which are only accessible by boat.
 
A German-speaking Swiss entrepreneur named Alain gives people boat rides, charging adults 4 Euro, and 2 Euro for children. People can only genuinely satisfy their curiosity about this harbor from the water, even though a lovely promenade conjoins the two parts of the town - Le Grau du Roi and Port Carmague. By boat, they are rewarded with sightings of rare birds — flamingos, unique seagulls, swallows and sandpipers — all inhabiting the salt deposits in the harbor region. In the distance, one can view an almost mystical scene: the lovely white horses of Carmague, grazing demurely.

Carmague also borders on swamps and ocean delta, where more than 300 species of birds flourish, many of them rare, as are some of the plant species growing in the region. The area is one of three of Europe's most important wetlands, offering sanctuary for endangered species. Visitors find serenity and renewal in this unique landscape.

A typical Camargue bull
A typical Camargue bull (Courtesy of Elke Backert)
Locals regard the Carmague bull as their icon, ascribing special properties to it. It is avidly photographed, and statues, both realistic and abstract, pay homage to it. The bull’s image adorns the walls of many establishments, public and private. (This is not the variety of bull familiar to us from Spanish bull fights.) There are bull ranches, called "manade," which specialize in breeding this animal for a special purpose - the "Course camarguaise,“ an annually celebrated local Bull Run spectacle: a truly colorful event.

An additional attraction that draws quite a lot of tourists is the Sea Aquarium. There are two levels where one can view the most exotic sea creatures. This place is also known for caring for ailing sea creatures that are nursed back to health and returned to the environment.

Those interested in the surrounding landscape will find the salt deposits and rice paddies close to Aigues-Mortes fascinating. (Carmague sea salt is a gourmet delicacy marketed around the world.) A city wall built around old town Aigues-Mortes remains in mint condition, with its maze-like structure featuring many exits. It measures 1,600 meters, and it takes more than a few hours to leisurely stroll the façade’s circumference.

Without question, nearly everyone is initially drawn to the Carmague area for its picturesque ocean villages and the entertainment potential they hold. But all in all, without question, the entire region offers something of interest for every vacationer’s taste, with a limitless wealth of things to see, do and delight in.

Read the German article

 



 
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