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Phoenix Arising

By Alex Fraser Created: Mar 20, 2009 Last Updated: Mar 20, 2009
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Spring slowly begins to reveal itself in London through crocuses, daffodils and plum blossom and so a not-so-young man’s fancy turns to tea. It’s time to consider what needs pre-ordering, what needs ordering and what Tim will seek on his next Asian trip.

Thanks to him I’ve tasted some interesting things this week, all from another highly-rated tea-maker, Master Wang, in the Phoenix  Mountains in Guangdong Province.

Perhaps most exciting is a very complex, organic Phoenix oolong of  exceeding quality and delight. Very fragrant with flowers and fruit. I don’t think I’ve managed to get the very best from it yet and will  persevere when I have more of it. Another world-class tea without doubt: this opinion corroborated by more than two other people.

The others were quite intriguing and unfamiliar. One is designated as Old Peach Nut, soft and fruity with a decided hint of the peach nut, that rarely appreciated little kernel within the pit. Apparently containing cyanide derivative these are unlikely to be harmful unless consumed in large numbers (I believe, best to check for yourself). As usual, I digress.

The other, just called Golden Leaves with which Master Wang has attempted to replicate a very ancient style of tea-making. The leaves are large, mostly a faded green backed with golden yellow and manipulated very little so that it is very bulky, making it seem impossible to get sufficient of the leaves into a pot. The brew is fragrant with a lightly roasted, non-floral, non-fruity nature. In the mouth there is a slight, yet distinct, almost sugary sweetness that is very pleasant and refreshing.

I’m in Cafe Oto (Japanese for sound) in Dalston, awaiting a performance by Charles Hayward, Yumi Hara and the venerable Akira Sakata.More later…

Alex runs east teas in Borough Market, London, Fridays 12-6p.m. and Saturdays 9-4p.m. Email epoch@eastteas.com.


 
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