Visiting Yorkshire in January?

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“Why did you and your son choose to visit Yorkshire, England, in January?” friends asked me. I explained that I had the rare opportunity to interview Dr. Sydney Bush, a prominent English researcher, so why not take a look at his Yorkshire home at the same time. And what better time to sit beside a cozy fire in an English pub?

Bob and I spent the first few days in Hull, one of Yorkshire’s major cities, often described as a gem in Yorkshire’s magnificent crown. Located on the banks of the Rivers Hull and Humber, it’s a city steeped in history. Once England’s busiest port on the east coast, the old town harbor has undergone a huge transformation with former marine warehouses turned into deluxe condominiums alongside quaint restaurants. The city also boasts eight free museums, theaters, a vibrant nightlife, and continental dining on Princes Street.    

Leaving Hull we stayed at a delightful country Georgian inn, Tickton Grange, near Beverley. This provided us the perfect base from which to explore the beautiful market towns, stunning coastline, and majestic East Yorkshire Wolds. The medieval town of Beverley, a few miles from Hull, is famous for its 13th century cathedral, narrow cobbled stoned streets, and antique shops. And there’s always a pub full of history where you can enjoy the traditional fish and chips meal.

But it was our host who helped us discover the wold or upland villages. This area stretches from the chalk cliffs of Flamborough Head to the Humber Estuary, a necklace of villages nestled in the tranquility of the Yorkshire Wolds. These villages and the surrounding countryside haven’t changed much since medieval times with narrow, winding roads, majestic skyscapes, and rolling hillsides. As we travelled over hill and dale, each village has a distinct character, perhaps a beautiful church, rows of ancient cottages, a legend or two or simply a welcoming place by a warm fire that is very hard to leave. The famous medieval village of Wharram Percy is not to be missed. The wolds are also a walker’s paradise. They can be traversed in a number of easy stretches.

Driffield, the capital of the wolds, situated in East Yorkshire, was visited by King John in 1200. Later in 1772, John Wesley, father of Methodism preached under the oak tree in market place. Today it’s a thriving market town.

We spent a day visiting the historic city of York, in the heart of Yorkshire, one of England’s premier destinations. Steeped in history, stretching back to Roman times, through the age of the Vikings, York eventually became one of Europe’s most important medieval cities. The city’s architecture is well-preserved including York Minster, the largest Gothic cathedral in Northern Europe, and the extensive city walls dating back to the 13th century. As well as having a host of buildings of historical interest, York is packed with attractions for adults and children such as the Jorvik Viking Centre, the National Rail Museum, or in summer you can take a boat ride down the River Ouse.

Another day we travelled over the moors en route to the Lake District. The moors, without their heather at this time of year, appeared eerie and desolate and brought to mind the detective thriller, The Hound of the Baskervilles, written by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. One could almost hear the howling. It was hardly a place where one would want to spend the night. But looking back on the trip, the moors were one of the highlights. Later that day we arrived at Windermere, a well-preserved village nestled along the shore of Lake Windermere, a most peaceful setting in an area I’d like to return to another time.

A visit to Whitby in North Yorkshire is another must call. It’s a snug working seaport town smack on the North Sea, surrounded by towering cliffs. Whitby is noted for the production of jewelry made from hard, deep black lignite coal. Queen Victoria wore nothing but black with a necklace of Whitby jet when her beloved husband Prince Albert died. It’s also the seaport from which Captain Cook ventured to the New World. But of greater importance to us that day was the Magpie Cafe. We both agreed it had warmth, atmosphere, and the best fish and chips in the whole of England.

But what do I remember best of all the miles we travelled in Yorkshire? It was the countryside rolling in every conceivable direction, mile after mile of stonewalls, the winding country roads, and dinners in pubs before a roaring fire. In all my travels I’ve never seen anything as beautiful the English countryside, even in winter.

As we left Yorkshire reluctantly there was one sad note. Economics has finally caught up with the English pub, we were told. They’re disappearing at an alarming rate. So here’s my advice to you. Go to England soon, winter or summer.

For more information see the Web site realyorkshire.co.uk